many mansions

 

 

 

As they say, people from Iloilo may not be as gregarious as their Bacolodnon counterparts who celebrate the good life with much gusto and much more moolah. It is even more prounounce right now that there is a Casino in that Negros Occidental city, and none in Iloilo. Apparently, Ilonggos take more pleasure in simple joys.

But still, as I went around, with my cousin Rolle Depakakibo and nephew Thad Depakakibo through the narrow residential streets of Iloilo City, one can certainly imagine the ritzy lifestyle that Ilonggos may have had in the distant past, particularly during the 1950s and 60s.  The old stately mansions of Iloilo are still there to be admired. The almost palatial Lopez family (ABSCBN and then Meralco Owner) ancestral homes still has that gleam and glamor as it features a beautifully manicured green lawn. It is said that it even has its own elevator – definitely an obscurity during that era.

The iconic Lizares Mansion has that gothic appeal, but is said to imbue colonial architecture. But definitely the ornate facade and beams create a rococo – almost baroque feel to the viewer. The Lizares residence has been converted to a Dominican School, Angelicum.

Another home worth a look is the Ledesma Family residence that features statuaries of eagles around the perimeter walls. Definitely, smaller than those of the Lizares’s or Lopez’s, but it does catch attention to those possibly wanting to go to nearby Guimaras Island Province as the wharf is just nearby.

Once you get to gawk at these Iloilo mansions, let other lifestyle imaginings explore your mind – the Packard and Mustang vintage family cars, the sugar plantation booms and bangus (milkfish) fishpond wealth,  the exclusive Assumption Girl School, much respected San Agustin School, the Candelaria Fiesta, mahjong and cockfighting sessions, and the fabulous Kahirup Club Social Balls.

it’s a wrap

 

Among the many Pinoy pastries, the tender and sweet pastillas de leche or simply put, pastillas are worth the bite and more. It used to be that as a child, I would buy by the dozens these two inch, almost candy-hard pastillas, delicately but simply wrapped in white paper. I am not quite sure if such pastillas are still being manufactured until today.

 But then I realized that there is another way of creating and presenting these pastillas. Such can be soft, chewy, sugary concotion where fresh carabao milk is incorporated.  And definitley, these pastries should please those who have the proverbial sweet tooth.  And if lucky enough, one may partake the ones wrapped in the most interesting and most elegant manner – direct from the pastillas corner of the Philippines – San Miguel, Bulacan.

These specially made pastillas from the last town of Bulacan, just before Nueva Ecija, are beautifully packaged in Japanese paper, which has a tail, almost similar to the ones of a traditional Filipino Christmas Lantern (parol).  Take a look at the tail, and be at awe with the delicate cut-outs which reveal a dainty lace design. It is almost tempting not to open the “pabalat” (wrapper)  itself as the wrapping is just too pretty to waste.  But then one  just has to give in to taste more of that creamy pastillas!

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It is said that the tradition of creating these pastillas wrappers dates back probably to early 20th century, and the folk art has been passed on through the generations. Alas, today, as there are less people (usually ladies in their 70s and 80s) who are adept in doing the intricate cut-outs, one needs to find a specialty shop in San Miguel, Bulacan to preorder the pastillas (now in different flavors such as keso (cheese) and ube (purple yam) and be astonished by the taste and the sight of these native sweets.

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You may want to order a box and proudly present it to a loved one from Aling Nene’ s Pastillas Shop. Just call Erwin at 0905-791-1123.

a lady wades through its river

It is like a scene straight out of an old part of Manila – a little chaotic, a little washed out. Multitudes of jeepneys and tricycles ply about the narrow city streets at its most commercial site of Centro. People try hard to amble about at the avenues and roads, without much of the wanted sidewalks or pavements. The city proper perhaps may look indistinguishable from other Philippine cities however one has to see through Naga City’s bustling commerce and animated lifestyle, to find out the genteel quality of its people and the soulful character of the vicinity.

If it is Naga, then it has to be Penafrancia. The charter city is host to the the most prominent church of the whole Bicolandia – the Penafrancia Church. At the corner of the metropolis, one can see church’s more moderne architecture where the image of Our Lady of Penafrancia is housed. Every September, the whole city and its devotees make a rapturous commemoration of a festival in honor of the Virgin. In other parts of the Philippines, such religious event is done in frenzied street style celebration. But somehow the local church officials through the years have made the whole Marian festival subdued yet with distinction – the image of the lady is paraded through the river of Naga. There, along different sections of the river, hundreds and thousands of people witness with much anticipation the fluvial parade, beautifully lit by the candles in the evening.

There is much piety and reverence pouring out from the place. Aside from the Penafrancia Church, it is the Cathedral of Naga that dominates the area. The Cathedral boasts of a spanish-romanesque influences with its thick walls, round arches, and large towers.

More education, less movies. Naga has numerous and prestigious colleges and universities. Among them is the Jesuit driven, Ateneo which has two campuses in Naga. One is in the nearer Bagumbayan Sur; the other a little toward Mt. Isarog, in the area of Pacol. For the youth who are leaning towards technology and science as a career goal then they should enroll at government funded, Naga City Science Highschool. During weekdays, one can see a plethora of students, enjoying the company of classmates and friends inside and outside school campuses.

Interestingly enough, the city kids of Naga do not frequent the malls. Perhaps, because all the malls in the city do not have movie houses (at the time this was written -2009). In fact there  just few of them – independent movie houses – scattered in the city. But this will change, as a humongous mall will open in the coming months to serve Camarines Sur and other provinces of Bicol. Surely, the mall will have many cinemas. And this may just alter the simple ways of the studentry of Naga.

Some like it hot – and with gata (coconut cream). Yes, it has been told that Bicol’s cuisine is largely spicy hot and calorie rich. One of the fastfood restos that promote such delectable local food creations is Geewan which can be seen in many parts of Bicol, including Naga. There one can have an appreciation of the original laing (taro or gabi’ leaves cooked in gata), Bicol Express (meat in shrimp paste and gata, and pinangat (ground beef wrapped in banana leaves).

The food in the Geewan is definitely scrumptuous, but somehow there is less bite than expected. Most probably Geewan has tempered the hotness of its servings, in order not to cause tongue trauma to its valued clients. Afterall, many customers who come by to this place are tourists who just want to sample the famous food of the region without experiencing the complications brought about by the supposed spiciness.

Definitely less piquant, but as flavorful as the other native Naga food is sinuman. It is a snack made out of glutinous rice cake cooked in panucha (crude sugar). In the outskirts of Naga City, ambulant vendors bring and display the stuff in a bilao (bamboo tray). Sinuman costs at five pesos a piece.

Naga may be as busy as the other urban centers of the Philippines. And it is possible, with some salient modifications in urban restoration, this chartered city can catch up with them in terms of luster and gleam. But it is Naga’s graciousness and ardent character that should always be kept and preserved by its people.

orientalia

 

The rite of Chinese New Year has been more pronounced for some years now in the Philippines (This year, it was celebrated on February 14, Valentines Day). Before, only the Filipino Chinese celebrated it, with all the trappings. Yet somehow, Filipinos in general, have regarded the Chinese New Year as an important occasion, thanks to the feng-shui experts and geomancers who graciously advise on people’s luck and fate for the new year through the use of the 12 animal signs during the many television interviews.

If the Chinese New Year is quite relatively new in many parts (beyond Binondo) of the country, Chinese food though has been relevant part of our rich Filipino food culture. There are all kinds of pancit – Bihon, Canton, Lomi, Mami, Sotanghon – all coming from woks and pans of our Chinese ancestors.

Of course, there are all sorts of lumpia or spring rolls. Crispy Lumpia Shanghai. dipped into the tangy sweet and sour sauce. There’s old filipino favorite Lumpiang Ubod (coconut palm hearts) or Lumpiang Gulay (vegetables), beautiful for merienda, served with thick brown sauce (if eaten fresh) or just plain vinegar (if fried).

Dimsum staples such as siopao (bolabola or asado) or siomai can be ordered from ritzy Chinese restaurants or just neighborhood eateries. In fact siopao and siomai have become popular streetfood themselves and should satisfy hunger and craving in a jiffy.

 

Aside from Chinese cooking,  Japanese food have become slowly part of food interests of Filipinos, particularly among the urbanites.  Some metro dwellers have already acquired the taste for sushi and sashimi although raw in preparation.  Japanese mimimalistic food entrees may not be as popular as the Chinese yummies, still such delights from Japan have already made signficant inroads to the Filipino tastebuds.

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Although Chinese New Year celebration comes only once a year (obviously), it is quite reassuring that all the oriental gustatory gratification can be had all year round right from our favorite restos or just from our own kitchens.

loft living, good for two to four, with dedicated dsl line

 

It is the third. It is called the Aurora Loft.

After creating the first unit – Rhodora Unit (https://letsgopinas.wordpress.com/2008/06/28/urban-refuge-at-half-the-usual-cost/), and our second – Justa Room (https://letsgopinas.wordpress.com/2008/09/28/and-then-theres-room-for-more-at-again-half-the-price/), we have come up with another special unit.

This time a bigger place that can accommodate again up to four people. It has a separate kitchen area, and more importantly a dedicated dsl line (not  just wi-fi!).

Just like the other two units, this has a microwave oven (for heating water and take-out food), a dining set, with dining utensils. As there are several eateries just a few steps away, and commercial fast food establishments (Chowking, Jollibee, Mc Donalds), one can just bring food to the unit and chill while at the comforts of your unit.

This unit is at the corner of Roces Avenue, and Quezon Boulevard. Highly commercial and highly accessible, it is near many hotspots in Quezon City, such as the finest dining area and clubs at Timog and Morato Avenues, and comedy bars at Quezon Boulevard. With just one public ride (jeepneys, fx, buses) you can easily go to the poshest malls of SM North, and Trinoma, or get some terrific goodies at great prices from Cubao and Quiapo.

If you are interested in this unit,  please call 0917-8339894, 4180776 or  9368-368.

remnants of time

The whole experience can be hypnotic.

Just saunter through the streets. And peer without rush at your left and at your right.  There are mansions and domiciles, antiquated from an epoch of supposed gracious living. Original Bahay na Bato structures eloquently suggest the era of tasteful everyday life during the Spanish Colonial era. The large arching gates implore you to imagine the masters of the house entering inside, utilizing their horse driven carriage. The upper floor’s capiz shell window shutters, swung open, capture an imagined young lass staring through them at a waiting and hopeful bachelor at the dusty cobblestone street corner. Then there were kids who just played around and finally decided to sit at the floor with their legs hanging from the ventanillas (small windows below the main windows) that functioned originally as an aid to make the whole sala (living space) more airy and well ventilated.

 But of course what you get are the remnants of the time gone by at Vigan’s Mestizo locality, more particularly at the restored and much resurrected Calle Crisologo, just a short distance from the main plaza of Vigan.  The homes have now weather beaten window shades and aging wooden doors. Wall plasters crumble, exposing the original brick and lime method of constructing the edifice. The patina of grime and disintegrating paint from the structures only make the whole scenario overwhelmingly raw and emotional as the whole place seems to be part of the collective cultural memory of the Filipinos.

 Calle Crisologo and its parallel streets are part of what was once an enclave for the Chinese migrant families during the 19^th Century. Many of whom were entrepreneurs who added relevantly to the economic life of Vigan and built illustrious names for themselves.  But through the years, the remaining descendants needed to get out from their ancestral homes, leaving them to caretakers for the maintenance and upkeep. Thus it is not hard to imagine that many of the residences would need so much repair and reconstruction in the later years.

 And according to the National Museum, a Spain based organization was able to provide seed money for the refurbishing of the whole district during the 90s. And of course the local government had to spearhead the project and inject vigor to the preservation of a definite Vigan heritage. Everything had been spruced up but the buildings need to conform with the architecture and design reminiscent of that period. Clutter that took away from the lure and gentility of the early times had to be lessened significantly.  

Now, there is much life along the stretch of Calle Crisologo and its side streets. The clip-clop sound of the horses which pull the karitela (carriage) contribute in essaying the recollection. The roaring sound of the tricycles and some window type airconditioning though are the some anachronisms to the place’s full design. The zaguans (where carriages were placed) of yore are now being rented out to stores that display and sell antique reproductions and mementos, enhancing even more its romanticism . Some of these quarters have now been transformed into hotels and inns which successfully continue the memory and legacy of the old magical existence of Vigan.

two tall

Lapulapu of Luneta Park. David of Davao City.

Two behemoth structures that call attention from their territory’s populace and guests. Two gigantic personas that awed and inspired their respective people at their respective time and place. One is from the pages of Philippine history; the other is  from the books of the Bible.

There is a replica of Michaelangelo’s statue of King David at the beachfront of Davao City. As written in the Old Testament, King David was the one who slung a rock at the forehead of the taller and much heavier Goliath who had been a menace  to Israelites.

And this tall structure made a commotion, a few years back among the politicians and the citizens of this economically progressive city of Davao. As the reproduction has David, nude and looming above the reflecting pool, some quarters wanted it removed; some, as a compromise, just required it to have some pants.

Apparently until now, the statue still depcits David in its naked glory, perhaps, just cooling his heels for the another round of fight, against censorship and prohibition, after the local elections this year.

Another controversial behemoth statue is the one at Rizal Park in Manila. Supposedly, this park should only honor, Jose Rizal, the Philippines’s national hero, and no one else as the park’s name implies, but apparently there is the great bronze figure of Lapu-Lapu, lording it over between the Department of Tourism and Department of Finance Buildings at the then known, Agrifina Circle of Luneta Park.

Some knowledgeable people of history and even landscape architecture raised voices against Lapulapu’s monument inside the national park. Some historians and chroniclers cited that Lapulapu had lead against the foreign invasion of the Spanish conquistadors, when the Philippines as a nation was not even created yet, hence Lapulapu should not be exactly called a Philippine hero yet. 

And some just didn’t like how the sculpture blends in with the aesthetics of the park, itself.  Lapulapu’s figure was too tall, and just did not create the balance and proportion with Rizal’s monument.

Apparently, regionalism deepened the controversy as some Cebuanos have taken the opposition to the marker as an insult to Visayans since Lapulapu had been a datu from Mactan, Cebu.

Whether such monolithic statues of King David or Datu Lapulapu have served well, in terms of beautifying and enhancing their respective places or not, there is no doubt such great people have affected other men and women to be wilfull and assertive against supposed enemies and antagonists.

a journey into stillness

Happy year 2010, my dear readers!

It is a new year for all of us. And perhaps, we may want to start off the year and a new decade, with some introspection on how we have lived our lives for the last 10 years, since year 2000.

You may just want to hie off to bucolic Bukidnon, not only for some rest and relaxaton, but for some prayerful retreat as well.

In Malaybalay, there is a place, run by the Benedictine Monks who can guide people to a spiritual journey. At the sprawling compound of the Monastery of  the Transfiguration, you are greeted with the iconic and yet moderne church, created by National Artist, Architect Leandro Locsin. With the church’s pyramidal rooftop pointing to the skies above, you yourself are set to reach the heavens above, with some contemplation and worship.

With less than a thousand pesos a day, the Monks will take you in as a guest, where you get to have some simple and yet hearty meals, including meriendas, and get to sleep alone, (or share a room, if you’re with your hubby or wife), in a spartan yet comfy room.

With no television and internet to disturb your peace, there is only the beauty of the rugged natural surroundings, and church’s wondrous architecture to help you explore your mind and heart. You are highly encouraged to be still and quiet, and just meditate on guide questions provided by the retreat masters throughout the day. 

And you start and end the day with monastic exultations and prayers. At about 3 in the morning, the church bell peels to signal for you to get ready and partake in worship, with the monks through incantations and songs. And at the evenings, you are invited to a dimly lit church for vespers and more enthralling choir music.

With the hooded monks at your beck and call for direction, the room and board ready for healing the weary soul, and the monastery’s sounds and sights for inspiration, Bukidnon’s Church of the Transfiguration is a highly recommended travel, for a brand new year, a brand new decade, and a brand new you.

a merry and marry month!

 

Christmas season, because of the long school and office break, has been traditionally a family reunion time as well. Many from outside the country, and even from Manila would take time to go back to their roots, particularly to their hometowns. It becomes an occasion for merriment, giftgiving and reacquaintances.

And because, Filipinos from abroad, would travel half the world to see their own respective families in the Philippines, many marrying couples would take the opportunity to walk down the aisles too. The engaged couple would be so appreciative and grateful if many more guests, particularly the Balikbayans (Filipino expatriates) could come and partake in this supposedly once in a lifetime moment of exchanging vows.

The pleasantly crisp and cool weather during this time, the good natured spirit of the people during the Holiday season, and even the deep pockets of relatives and friends, brought about by the Christmas salary bonuses or business sales, should just push the couple to seek out and reserve venues for the wedding and reception during December, such as the very popular Fernwood Garden in Quezon City. ( The place has that forested ambiance, for intimate or grand weddings. And its chapel has that elegant interiors, enhancing the sanctity of the nuptials.)

It is no surprise, that the National Statistics Office would list the month of December, as the month when mates most marry, beating out the supposedly traditional matrimonial month of June  (hence the appellaton, “June Bride”).

In this month, let me greet my Mom and Dad, “Happy Wedding Anniversary,” and to my cousin Arnold and his wife, Sherrie, “Congratulations and Best Wishes.”

And of course, in this month, let me say to you too, dear readers, “Cheers and Happy Holidays!”

the vanguard island: madridejos

(preceding story: https://letsgopinas.wordpress.com/2009/11/14/the-vanguard-island-bantayan-proper/)

Island gatekeeper. You then haggle with your guide to bring you to your final destination – Madridejos, specifically at the Kota Park. This is where you get to see vestiges of fortifications that had been all around the island during the Spanish Era.

The island during the 17^th century had several mortal and coral watchtowers and two fort settlements which were protecting other neighboring islands such as the whole Cebu Island, Leyte, Masbate and even other islands in Mindanao from seaborne Moros hence the appellation  “Bantayan” (to guard).

But you need to wait for the sunset at its coastal line to appreciate the incredible beauty of the area. There you get to make out silhouettes of people as they pick some crablets for dinner from rockstones where the seawater has receded. It can be a powerful picture of the quintessential coastal life. And the long newly constructed way to its viewdeck just enhances the drama of the beach.

Daing for pasalubong. As you end your travel, with very inexpensive daing na danggit (dried fish) just bought from the market at Bantayan Proper as homecoming treat, and as the sea changes its hue from aquamarine of the shallow waters to blue cobalt of the deep ocean while taking a ferry out of the island, then you realize that Bantayan is only a memory that will linger for many months to come.